Wednesday, February 20, 2013

Early Victorian Era Ladies' Headwear - May 1852 Le Moniteur de la Mode

Early Victorian Era Ladies' Headwear - May 1852 Le Moniteur de la Mode

Explanation of the Plate of Bonnets

Nos 1 and 2 - Drawn bonnet, tulle, blond and ribbon. This bonnet, very transparent, is on a wire frame. The whole edge of the brim and curtain is trimmed with No. 4 ribbon, doubled over and gathered. The brim and the head are covered by three ribbons gathered a la visible; each edge of this ribbon is ornamented by a narrow blond, gathered. The top of the curtain is trimmed in the same manner; so that the tulle of the bonnet is seen between the rows of the trimming. The crown is almost flat and ornamented like the brim with ribbons and blond, which form five rows. The inside is decorated with flowers.

Nos 3 and 4 - Drawn bonnet, tulle, blond, fringe ribbons and taffeta. The brim is trimmed inside with flowers and plain poppies, then fringed ribbons, half an inch wide, placed slanting and sewed only at the extremities, so as not to lie flat. Two blonds, one inside, the other outside, ornament the edge of the brim. The top of the brim is decorated with two rows of fringed ribbon, in relief, that is to say, they are fastened down only at the ends and do not lie flat. It is easy to conceive that a ribbon two inches long, and having its end sewed down at a distance less than an inch and a half must of necessity lie hollow. The curtain is trimmed the same. The sides of the crown, two inches wide, are of crampled taffeta. The crown is trimmed with three bands of taffeta, cut lance shape, and edged with blond, surmounted by a knot with two bows and two ends, the whole edged with blond.

No 5. Drawn bonnet, of taffeta and blond; the brim which is 4 inches wide, is of taffeta doubled, that is, the inside and outside are of one piece. It has several gathers. The side of crown, three inches and a quarter wide, is of the same material, puffed at the sides for about an inch, and there are also fourteen ribs in the whole circuit. The top of crown is soft; a roll along the edge of the crown. The ornaments consist of small rolls of taffeta to which are sewed two rows of blond three quarters of an inch wide. These same rolls ornament the brim, being placed on the edge, and inside as well as outside. There are seventeen of these ornaments on the brim, with an inch and a half of interval between them. The curtain is trimmed in the same manner, and has ten of them. The top of crown has five rolls, trimmed with blond, put on in the same way as in the model No 2. The inside is ornamented with roses, brown foliage, and bouclettes of narrow blue ribbons mixing with the flowers.

No 6. Bonnet made of hair and straw, blond and ribbons. The edge of the brim is ornamented with hair lace. The side of crown is covered by a kind of hair fanchon with straw ornaments. The edge of this fanchon is trimmed behind with five blond frills, hanging over each other without any visible curtain. On each side there is a handsome bow with long floating ends of No 16 ribbon, white watered silk. The inside is white taffeta trimmed with blonds; all round inside the brim are flowers in tufts at intervals. At the cheeks these tufts are larger, and have ends of No 9 ribbon mixed with them.

No 7. Drawn bonnet of white tulle and straw-coloured taffeta, edged with a fringed guipure and bouquets of Parma violets. The taffeta trimming is disposed inside and outside the brim, in vandykes, the points of which are nearly three inches apart. In each space between them is a bouquet of Parma violets. The points of the fanchon lie upon the crown.

No 8. Drawn bonnet, of tulle, blond, taffeta, and straw trimmings, with flowers of straw and crape. The edge of the brim is cut in fourteen scollops. The inside is puffed tulle, mixed with blond. The scollops of the edge are continued all over the bonnet and are alternately tulle and white taffeta, with a straw edging.

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