Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1859 Peterson's Magazine

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1859 Peterson's Magazine

General Remarks

Although the width of robes is as yet but little diminished, if at all, at the bottom, it is greatly reduced in mounting to the top; this is effected by gradually sloping some of the back breadths attached to the corsage. This manner of cutting out skirts is by far the most advantageous to the shape that we have yet seen; it is far more graceful than the old fashion of goring the skirt at each side, which has been lately unsuccessfully attempted to be brought again into vogue.

The newest style of making dresses is with large plaits, no points or waistband, nor any separation at the waist. Yet there are many also with round waists, waistband and "infant bodies," for young ladies; and lastly some few with two points and even short lappets but into points all round.

For Morning Dresses bodies are made high and plain; some ladies are preferring them without the basquine, the waists round and worn with narrow belt and buckle: sleeves are very wide, whether of the open pagoda form, or in large puffs. The plaitings, as in fig 4, continue fashionable for trimming dresses. A dress of grey watered silk has lately been made with a body in the shape of a hussar jacket, and a velvet waistcoat and steel buttons. The skirt is gathered in very large plaits, and on each plait there is a band of velvet ending in a point, and reaching about to the knee. The sleeves have elbows, with jockeys and pointed cuffs. Organdies and lawns are generally made low in the neck, with a cape of the same material as the dress. These capes are usually in the surplice style, that is not close up in the neck in front, but open, and the ends crossing over each other at the waist. A pretty lace of cambric edging, or even a ruffle of the material of the dress, is the prettiest way of finishing these capes. A puffing of the lawn or organdy is also pretty. For evening dresses, one of the greatest novelties is a dress of two skirts of two different shades of green or pink silk: the first skirt made very long and full, is of a bright rich color, the second skirt, not quite so full, is of a lighter and more delicate shade: to give a more dressy and elegant appearance, the second skirt may be looped up at each side by a Watteau porte-jupe, ornamented to correspond with the dress, or in any other manner preferred: the corsage and sleeves are of the same color as the second skirt.

Linene articles are still profusely ornamented with ribbons or velvets, and mixed with white and black lace. The most dressy under-sleeves have two large puffs, either muslin or tulle, with a transparent ribbon at the edge and a rich lace. Others are simple puffs bordered with velvet or ribbon with a rosette; others again have bands bordered in the same way with a ribbon or a velvet, but with a trimming of black lace turned back over it. Then others again have all round small barbs of lace or velvet trimmed with lace. For morning wear, they have cuffs turned up, either embroidered or quadrilled with velvet. An original innovation just introduced consists of colored embroidery forming wreaths on a quilted ground, which is likewise colored. A plain cuff of crimson or amaranth velvet has a very pretty effect with white under-sleeves. Another style of sleeve, much on favor, has a very broad mousquetaire cuff composed of tulle or net, of whichever material the sleeve may consist. This cuff is crossed with rows of China blue velvet, edged with narrow white lace. The collar intended to be worn with these sleeves is pointed in front and behind, and trimmed with crossings of velvet in the manner just described. For ordinary out-door dress, collars and cuffs of nansouk are crossed with black velvet. Crossings of velvet are also extremely fashionable for fichus, pelerines, and bretelles, made of black tulle. The crossings are of narrow black velvet in a lozenge pattern, and the pelerines, &c., are edged round with full trimmings of black lace. These pelerines and bretelles have long ends, which may be crossed in front and linked one in the other at the back of the waist, or they may be left to flow over the front of the skirt. In either way their effect is very elegant. When made of white tulle the crossings are of colored velvet. Berthes are also trimmed with a combination of black and white lace or blonde. These berthes are particularly pretty over pink, green, or maize-colored dresses.

Head-Dresses are at present very elegant. Among the most beautiful of those composed of flowers, are some wreaths of violets intermingled with bunches of black currants, or with wheat-ears in gold. We may mention that gold wheat-ears have become favorite ornaments used as adjuncts to wreaths. ONe of the newly-introduced wreaths is formed of the flowers of the hop, in variegated tints of pale green and yellow; the foliage sprinkled with frosting in imitation of dew. Wreaths formed of corn-flags and blades of grass, and others composed of camelias with pendent sprays of buds and foliage, are among the favorites. The foliage combined with the new flowers and wreaths is frequently of different tints, shaded, and lightly frosted.

Among the head-dresses, of which flowers form no part, we have seen one composed of bright blue velvet, pliant twists of gold, and light gold tassels. Another consists of a toque of green velvet trimmed with gold braid, which forms an arabesque ornament on one side; on the other side, a plume of magnificent white marabouts, tipped with gold, droop toward the back of the neck.

Mantles are usually of black silk, made quite large, of a shawl shape, and have a hood. Some of these hoods are quite plain, trimmed with only tassels; others are ornamented with fringe or lace; and others again are composed of lace entirely.

Basquines for the street are also increasing in favor. These are made very deep, reaching to within about half a yard of the bottom of the dress. There is usually no trimming on them, except the corsage buttons which confine them from the waist up. The sleeves are very long and wide, cut in the Venitian style, with a deep point reaching more than half way down the skirt. The Ninon de Lenclos is a basquine not fitting close to the waist, and it has the addition of a deep pelerine or cape. The one we have seen is composed of black silk. The skirt and front of the basquine are trimmed with bouillonnes of silk, in three rows. Round the throat there are two rows only of these bouillonnes. The pelerine is edged with a deep row of black quipure, headed by two rows of bouillonnes.

Bonnets of straw are unusually beautiful this season. Some very coarse straws are trimmed on the outside with a straw cord and tassel; others have a soft cap crown of some pretty plaid or plain silk; and others are trimmed with barbs of black lace, or knots of ribbon and violets. These latter are of fine split straw. The under-trimming consists generally of a blonde cap and bows of ribbon, or tufts of violets, daisies, roses, &c. The capes are much smaller than those heretofore worn, and are usually set on in double box plaits. The fronts are slightly a la Marie Stuart, but without being exactly pointed in front.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1839 The Ladies Pocket Magazine

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1839 The Ladies Pocket Magazine

Remarks on the Prevailing London Fashions

At last we may confidently say that the summer fashions are fairly set in; and seldom, indeed, have we seen them more tasteful and becoming. Walking dress is not, as yet, of a very light kind, nor do we think it is likely to be during the summer. Mousselines de laine, and silks of quiet colours, are decidedly the vogue for robes: a good many of the silk dresses are bordered with a single flounce of moderate depth; those of mousseline de laine, if trimmed, are mostly ornamented with bias folds from two to four in number. Corsages are invariably made round in walking dress, and a good many quite high, that is to say behind, for all are more or less open on the bosom. Sleeves are moderately full at the lower part, and it is now ascertained that tight ones will not be at all adopted.

The vogue of shawls and mantelets is quite as general as it was last year; but we observe that shawls, which were then in a minority, are now in a majority: it is, however, probable that, as the season advances, mantelets will resume their ascendancy. Those adopted in walking dress are of a very quiet kind, either black or saber-coloured silks, usually trimmed with black lace, or plain French cashmere enbroidered in silk of the same colour.

Straw bonnets are a good deal adopted in plain walking dress; the shape is quite different from that of last season: they are closer, larger in the brim, and quite round; the centre of the brim is narrow, and the sides wide. A few, and we think they are the prettiest, are of the French cottage shape. The trimmings are, in our opinion, too shewy for walking dress, for almost all are decorated with flowers, both in the interior of the brim and on the crown. The ribbons employed for these bonnets are very rich; they are either shaded, figured, or striped. Bonnets of either rich, plain, or figured silk, are more in request than straw, in walking costume; the shapes are the same, but the majority of silk bonnets have the edge of the brim finished with one or two bias bands of silk, and some few are decorated with a fall of white lace not so deep as a curtain veil.

Carriage hats and bonnets are of very light materials; crape, crepe lisse, and rice straw predominate. Italian straw, though in the highest degree fashionable, is not so generally adopted as the materials we have just mentioned. The Pamela shape is no longer in vogue: all, or at least nearly all, Italian straw hats have the brim now cut in a round form, larger certainly than other hats, but by no means in its original size. Some of these hats are trimmed with a peacock's feather cut in the form of a palm; others are trimmed with white ostrich feathers. White ribbons, very richly figured, are a good deal employed, but not so much as those that are figured in colours, either in flower or fruit patterns, or with the edges to imitate lace. Rice straw hats are trimmed in a similar style, that is a few, for the majority are decorated with flowers. A singularly pretty style of trimming that is a good deal in favour for these hats, is a very small wreath of flowers, intermingled with crape ornaments; it issues from them en gerbe at the side of the crown, but very low down, and passes a little below the brim: this is a kind of trimming at once graceful, novel, and becoming. Bonnets of crape and crepe lisse are generally drawn; they are trimmed with flowers, and a mixture of blond lace, or else of the material of the bonnet; ribbon is rarely employed for them.

Lace, both black and white, is in very great favour for every part of dress for which it can be used; even robes de chambre, composed of very fine plain mousseline de laine, are sometimes trimmed with it. This is, however, to be regarded as a fancy rather than a fashion, and a fancy which will suit very rich elegantes only, as the laces thus employed are foreign, and of the most expensive kind. The majority of silk robes, in dinner and evening dress, have the flounces of lace. A few muslin tunics have appeared in evening dress; they were worn over skirts to correspond; the latter were embroidered round the border, which was also finished with a very deep flounce of lace; it was headed by a bouillonnes, through which a coloured ribbon was ran. The tunic, rounded at the corners, and sufficiently short to display the embroidery of the skirt, was also worked in a light pattern all round, but from each corner a gerbe of flowers, richly interspersed with open work, rose to a considerable height at each side; it was trimmed also with lace and bouillonnes; the corsage was en coeur, with the lace placed below the embroidery, and the sleeve of the Victoria form, very profusely trimmed with lace. Petits bords of rice straw are beginning to supersede those of velvet in evening dress. Fancy coiffures are much in favour, but they are now of a very simple kind, composed principally of lace and flowers. Fashionable colours have not altered materially, but white, pea green, and lilac are more in request than last month.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1838 The World of Fashion

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1838 The World of Fashion

Newest London Fashions for June, 1838

The summer is now in all its eclat, and our prints will testify our assertion that the summer fashions are unusually brilliant. How, indeed, can they be otherwise? when we consider that it is the firt summer in which our young and lovely Queen assembles around her a brilliant and splendid Court. We say the first summer, for a great part of the latter was devoted to the Court mourning. The approach of the Coronation too, will render the season more brilliant than any that has preceded it, at least in the memory of any of our fair readers. But let us, without further digression, proceed to state what are the novelties that have appeared since our last number; and first,

Printed Muslins will be worn in morning neglige and half dress; the patterns are small and remarkable both for their novelty and elegance. Those for neglige are jaconot muslin, the others are clear muslin, and so beautifully fine and transparent, that they are well calculated for half-dress.

Shawls and Mantelets - Those of black silk are still the most in favour; the forms are those that have been so often described; the trimming is generally black lace, which we must observe is likely to continue in favour both for these envelopes, and for dresses during the summer. The first offer a good deal of variety; some are lined with rose or straw-coloured sarsenet, others worn without lining; many are ornamented with rich embroidery, others are quite plain. Some are trimmed with lace; others with bands of muslin that are either embroidered round the border, or scolloped at the edge. Some of these shawls form maltelets; others are square. We see them also descend in points, forming scarfs. So that it may be said with truth there are shawls for all tastes and all fortunes. We cannot say the same of the China crape shawls, for to be fashionable they must be of the rich kind described in our last number.

Rice Straw Hats - Some have just appeared remarkable for the smallness of their brims. One that has been generally admired is ornamented with a richly figured white and green ribbon, and a bunch of white grapes; others were ornamented with five roses, panachees, or a voilette, entirely covering the brim, with a bunch of ears of barley under the voilette; others are adorned with plumes a crete de marabouts, either poquille, azure blue, or rose. Dyed marabouts are also very generally employed for the trimming of these hats.

Italian Straw Hats - Although the majority have not the brims cut, there is yet a considerable minority that have, and we have seen some of the most expensive of these beautiful hats that have been submitted to the scissars. We cannot help feeling it a pity, for there is no form which can be given to these hats more graceful than their original one, with the brim partially turned up at the back. We may cite among the most elegant of these chapeaux, those ornamented with a head of asparagus en graine; the verdure is extremely delicate, and the little red seeds have a singularly pretty effect. The ribbon that trims these hats is twisted round the upper part of the crown and terminates in a knot on one side. The brides are attached under the brim; there is no ribbon round the lower part of the crown. Violets of Parma and flowers of the Alps are much in request for trimming the interior of the brims of Italian straw hats.

Half-Dress Bonnets - We may cite at the head of our list of these elegant novelties those that have recently appeared of coloured silk, covered with India muslin, embroidered in colannes, ambesques, or strewed with sprigs in feather-stitch. The interior of the brim and the bavolet are also covered with muslin. Some delicate flowers decorate the interior of the brim, and a triple knot of ribbons with long floating ends placed on one side of the crown completes the trimming. Another bonnet of white gros de Naples, lined with cherry colour, had an admirable effect; it was trimmed with a blond lace violette, and a bouquet of flowers, tied by a broad white ribbon shaded with cherry-colour. Some crape bonnets, covered with spotted tulle have just appeared; the effect is at once novel and pretty, they are trimmed with roses mignonne.

Cottage Bonnets - There seems little doubt that these bonnets, of a form very different, however, to their original shape, will be adopted by our elegantes during the summer; we mean, of course, in a certain degree, for we think they will be, as the French would say, une mode a part. We have seen some in very fine straw, lined with white satin; the crown and brim were in one, but the latter rounded at the corners, and moderately wide, is infinitely more becoming as well as more distingue than the original cottage bonnet. Some have no trimming in the interior of the brim, others are ornamented in a very light style with tulle. A round and very full knot of ribbon with floating ends is placed at the back of the crown. This is a remarkably elegant and lady-like style of bonnet. Another somewhat different in form, called a bibi cottage, has just appeared in rice straw; they are trimmed with dark coloured ribbons; chocolate brown and a new shade of blue are the prettiest colours. The edge of the brim was trimmed with a ruche. We must observe that this ornament is now very generally employed for morning bonnets; in effect nothing can be more generally becoming, from the softness it gives to the feature.

Robes for Carriage or Public Promenade Dress - The most elegant robes are those of embroidered muslin, trimmed with flounces embroidered expressly for that kind of trimming; the sleeves, tight at the top, are all trimmed at the upper part with flounces, and are demi-large to the wrist; the backs of the corsages are full, and a good many have the fronts plain; if they are trimmed, they are trimmed in a very simple style, and particularly in such a manner as to leave the bottom of the corsage quite disengaged. We shall cite a corsage of a half high robe, the waist very long, disengaged from all kind of ornament near the ceinture, but on the breast was an oval trimming formed by a band which terminated its point at each end, flat plaits issued from the trimming on each side and met the shoulder-strap. The upper part of corsages continue to be cut always rather open en coeur. If the robe is composed of silk or muslin; this opening is generally trimmed with one or two rows of lace set on full. We have great reason to believe that pelisse robes of muslin or organdy lined with silk will not enjoy the same vogue that they have done for some seasons past; they will, however, enjoy a certain degree of favour, for they are too pretty to be all at once laid aside. A few robes of plain muslin have appeared without any other ornament than a deep hem round the bottom, through which a coloured ribbon was run; this simplicity was, however, redeemed by the corsage and sleeves being trimmed with lace, or else a pelerine mantelet of lace crossed on the bosom, and the ends descending to the ceinture, being worn with the robe.

Morning Concert Dresses - We cannot do better than present our fair readers with a few ensembles of elegant half-dress toilettes that have recently appeared at some of these reunions; a plain muslin robe trimmed with two volans, embroidered in a light pattern, each surmounted by a riviere nearly half-a-quarter deep; the flounce is finished at the edge by a narrow scolloped lace. The dress was worn over a gros de Naples slip of the palest blue. A large shawl of blue pou de soie, with a narrow lappet; the shawl embroidered all round a climbing wreath, and finished with a deep full trimming, cut out in dents at the edge. Rice straw hat, trimmed with follettes panachees de blue, and the interior of the brim ornamented with light blue velvet. Organdy robe, trimmed with a deep flounce, surmounted by a bouillon with a rose-coloured ribbon run through it; the bottom of the flounce finished with two narrow tucks each with a ribbon run through. Corsage vierge full all round; the fullness gathered at top into two embroidered bands. Wide sleeves, surmounted by two jockeys; they are drawn with ribbons in the hem, and drawn in at the bottom by three bands of ribbon at equal distances, with small knots in the centre of the arm. White crape cottage bonnet, trimmed with a ruche of rose ribbon, and a sprig of moss roses drooping on one side. Robe of changeable silk, lilac and straw colour; the skirt is trimmed with a flounce embroidered in lilac silk. Wide sleeves ornamented en suite. Corsage tight and half high. Pelerine mantelet of embroidered muslin trimmed with lace, and lined with white taffetas. Italian straw hat trimmed with a bird of Paradise, and straw-coloured ribbons.

Pelisse Robes - continue to be adopted in half-dress; some few are of muslin embroidered and trimmed with lace; but the majority are composed of pou de soie or gros de Naples; the back may be either plain or full, but the front is always cut en coeur. We may cite as the most elegant of these dresses, those of grey pou de soie, closed entirely down the centre with a ruche chievree of the material of the robe; a second ruche forms a tunic, and reaches en tablier to the ceinture. Corsage en schall, with a lappel trimmed en suite. Wide sleeves, the shoulders and wrists trimmed with ruches.

Victoria Sleeve - Such is the form almost universally adopted for long sleeves; the only difference that exists is in the variety of ornaments at the top, and the greater or less wider at the bottom. When they are not close at the top they are confined by bands, either two or three in number, nearly to the elbow; the lower part of the sleeve is full.

Coiffures in Evening Dress - are principally distinguished for their simplicity. We may cite as among the prettiest, a cap, or rather a half caul of a cap placed very far back upon the head; it is composed of blond lace, and the front formed of two half wreaths of light flowers, which, descending on each side of the cheeks, droop upon the neck. Small hats of rice straw with aureoli brims, the interior decorated with flowers; the crowns with shaded marabouts are also in favour; and white crape hats still more so. But, perhaps, the prettiest coiffure is one that we hardly know how to desigante, it is neither a hat nor a cap, but may be said to partake in some degree of the forms of both; it is composed of blond lace, and trimmed with gerbes of small roses, partly veiled under the folds of lace.

Evening Head-Dresses of Hair - They are uniformly dressed very low behind, the knot of hair being placed almost upon the nape of the neck. We may cite as the most elegant style of ornament for these coiffures, knots of ribbon attached on each side with the ends floating upon the neck and shoulders; a few flowers are tastefully placed. We frequently see a pink camelia placed on one side in a tuft of hair, and a corresponding one opposite; roses are often arranged in the same manner. Another favourite ornament is a sprig of heath blossoms, placed very far back, or two boquets of violets of Parma, disposed like pompons on each side of the cheeks.

Fashionable Colours - still continue to be of the kind that we have enumerated last month, but a variety of new and beautiful shades of these colours have appeared. White is still more predominant.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1838 The World of Fashion

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1838 The World of Fashion

Newest Parisian Fashions, From the Most Authentic Sources

At last the Spring seems to have set in with sufficient warmth to entice our elegantes to appear in what may be termed decided summer costumes. Our fair readers will find in our prints a variety of models equally remarkable for novelty and elegance. We hasten, in addition, to give them such intelligence as we flatter ourselves they will find equally useful and gratifying to their taste.

New Materials - We may cite among the most distingue, the poults de soie chine, striped in narrow stripes, which are either shaded or divided by very small wreaths, or else by detahced sprigs figured in the silk; gros de Naples glace, striped in marbled stripes - the stripes are narrow and very wide apart: this silk has a very novel appearance and seems likely to become very fashionable. Gros de Naples a mille raies, and also gros de Naples a mille raies quadrilles, are in very great favour, as are likewise silks a colonnes mille raies brochees. Generally speaking, large patterns are out of favour; however, we have not yet passed from one extreme to the other, for the present patterns are of a reasonable size - we speak, of course, of figured and damasked silks. The same observation is applicable to mousselines de laine; it was expected that those with large shaded colonnes would have again become fashionable, and, indeed, several patterns of the kind have appeared, but they will not be at all in vogue.

Capotes - In order to present our fair readers with those most worthy of their notice, we must have recourse to the bois de Boulogne, which is now the fashionable promenade; there we find some elegant bonnets of rice straw, the brims round and of moderate size, the crowns placed very backwards. Some are trimmed with flowers, others with branches of fruit blossoms, and several with branches of unripe currants or tufts of strawberries. We see several capotes of pou de soie, particularly of white and straw-colour, trimmed with ruches of the same material round the edge of the brim and on the summit of the crown; a single knot of ribbon on one side of the crown completes the trimming. But, the capotes par excellence, are those composed of crape; the most novel are bouillonnee, the shape sustained by whalebone; those of rose-colour, azure blue, and white, are most numerous. We have observed that sprigs of lilac, roses, panachees, and jessamines, were the flowers most in favour for trimming crape bonnets. We noticed, also, that several were adorned with bouquets of shaded marabouts; the bouquets are placed low on the sides of the crown, so as to droop in the gerbe style upon the brims; this style of trimming is remarkable for lightness and grace.

Chapeaux - We may cite among the most novel, one of Italian straw, trimmed with a branch of nut blossoms, attached by a lappet of English point lace. A great number of hats of Italian straw have the brim turned up behind in three folds; a good many are decorated with ears of ripe corn, or ornaments composed of organdy; where these latter are employed, they are either edged with straw plait or embroidered in coloured spots. A very novel and graceful style of trimming is a chaperon of ribbon; it is arranged in an uncommonly novel and graceful style. Hats of French and English straw are expected to be worn, but very few have yet appeared; they are trimmed quite in the spring style, and with great taste. Violettes de Parme and white violets will be much in favour, and a miniature lettuce, which is now become a favourite ornament both for caps and hats, will be frequently employed; we must observe that where it is used, it will always correspond either with the hat or the ribbon that trims it. As to the forms of hats we have no hesitation in saying that the brims are considerably diminished in size, they are rounded at the sides, and short in the centre; the crown is thrown backward in a degage and graceful style.

Fancy Silk Trimmings are always in favour to ornament robes. We have heard a good deal said pour et contra these trimmings, which have been partially revived during the last season, and we have reason to think they will be decidedly in favour this year. We hope so; for, independently of their being very pretty, and adding an elegant finish to a dress, they are very useful in another point of view, they serve to encourage a particular branch of trade, and consequently give bread to many industrious persons. We have seen a pelisse just ordered by a lady of very high rank; it is composed of lilac pou de soie, and closed down the side by small brandebourgs placed in a bias direction, and terminated by glands. Another pelisse, also ordered by a distinguished leader of ton, is composed of gros de Naples, quadrilled in small squares of lilac and white; the sleeves were very large, and the corsage made to the shape, but disposed en coeur; both were ornamented with very narrow soft silk fringe, of the two colours of the dresses. One side of the skirt wrapping across a little, and cut in scollops, had the scollops edged with fringe; the effect was very pretty, owing to the extreme lightness of the trimming.

Costumes de Spectacle - The re-appearance of Robert le Diable and that of the Domino noir has attracted all the beau monde; we scarcely remember a more brilliant display of toilettes than both representations have afforded. The majority of the robes were of silk; the corsages for the most part cut low, were either draped or made a revers. Short sleeves composed of bouillons, made with little fullness, and put closely together; the shoulders were decorated with knots of ribbon with floating ends; but we observed that they were not near so long as they have been recently worn. The skirts for the most part trimmed with flounces, or rather, we should say, one very deep flounce of the same material as the dress, ornamented with a knot of ribbon of the same form as that on the sleeve; it is placed on the right side and just above the flounce.

Coiffures de Spectacle - We may cite among the most novel one of the Hebrew kind, which, however, was introduced by a very beautiful Christian. Indeed, we must observe that the turban a la Juive, and other head-dresses of the Jewish kind, which during late years have been so very much in favour, were never seen upon the heads of the fair daughters of Israel, to whose style of countenance, however, they would have been much more becoming than to the generality of the belles who adopted them. But to return to our subject, the coiffure is composed of a narrow circle of plain gold, in the centre of which is a single precious stone of very high price, or else a lozenge composed of twelve different gems; this novel arrangement of precious stones has some resemblance to the plaque symbolique of the pontiffs of ancient Israel. We need hardly observe that this ornament is much better calculated for majestic belles, or as the French phrase it, for la beaute severe, than for countenances of the Hebe cast. We would recommend to those of the latter, the prettiest of all the pretty little caps that have recently appeared; it is composed of blond lace, a small caul formed of a single piece, and a moderately high papillon coquilie all round; some knots of shaded blue ribbon ornament the interior of the papillon and long brides to correspond float upon the neck. The effect of this cap upon a pretty youthful face is positively bewitching.

French Court Dress - We select from a crowd of elegant toilettes, that of the Princess Clementine and of an English lady of high rank. The robe of the princess was of white gros de Tours; it was ornamented with two garlands of giroflee, intermingled with foliage, and forming a tablier. The corsage and sleeves were profusely trimmed with blond lace. Flowers corresponding with those on her dress were intermingled with her ringlets, a river of diamonds, and a couronne formed of emeralds and diamonds completed the ornaments of the coiffure, and a superb necklace of diamonds and emeralds, ornamented with three Sevignes finished a toilette of what may well be called royal munificence. The robe of the Countess ____ was of white lace over white pou de soie; the robe was completely covered by two immense flounces of English point lace, one of which was attached round the waist and descended to the middle of the skirt, where it met the second flounce which reached to the bottom. This singular dress, notwithstanding its apparent simplicity, was one of the richest at court. The hair arranged a la Berthe, was ornamented with point lace lappets to correspond; a superb plume of ostrich feathers, and bandeau of diamonds. The majority of the dresses were silk, those of moire, either rose or white, were most general; they were trimmed with deep flounces of English point lace. There were also several robes of organdy, trimmed with lace. It is the first time that dresses of such extreme simplicity have been seen at court.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - February 1839 The Ladies Pocket Magazine

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - February 1839 The Ladies Pocket Magazine Remarks on the Prevailing Paris Fashions Vive la danse! Such is the exclamation of our youthful elegants and elegantes at present; it is, in truth, the season of fetes, and they never were more numerous and brilliant than they are at this moment; but before we enter the salls de bal, we have to perform our customary duty of taking a general view of the other departments of the toilette. We have little actual change to signalize in the form of hats and bonnets; the principal difference, in fact, that exists in the form is, that the first have the back of the crown encircled by the brim, which is, however, in that part exceedingly narrow, and the others are made with curtains. The brims of the majority are somewhat in the oval form, and decidedly closer than they were last season; the crowns are placed almost horizontally, which, we must observe, is by no means a generally becoming fashion. Black velvet continues to be the material most in favour for hats, particularly when trimmed with a single ostrich feather falling on the throat, and shaded to correspond with the colours of the ribbons employed. We must observe, however, that though shaded ribbons still retain their vogue, we see a good many hats trimmed with rich satin ribbons of one colour only, and a bouquet of feathers, that is, three short feathers to correspond. Blue and green of peculiarly rich full shades, are the hues in favour for that style of trimming. We may cite, among the most novel hats of the month, those of a new colour; it is between an azure blue and a French grey; both the edge of the brim and the back of the crown are trimmed with very broad antique black lace, a single ostrich feather panaches in different shades of blue, and ribbon to correspond; the latter, very sparingly employed, forms the trimming. Shot silks and satins are getting very fast out of favour, particularly in out-door costume. We see very few hats or bonnets composed of them, and scarcely any shawls; the most fashionable of the latter are now made of plain levantine, taffetas, or velvet, and trimmed with sable or ermine. Pou de soie robes, ornamented with fancy silk trimmings, appear to be in great favour in half dress: we have seen some that had the border trimmed in the apron style with guimpe of a new description, intermixed with silk acorns; the sleeves were ornamented to correspond, and the corsage, which was half high, was trimmed round the top with a lappel descending in a point in front, and bordered with guimpe. We may cite, among the most novel evening dresses, those of pou de soie, trimmed with three flounces, each flounce ornamented with a guirlande of lace. The sleeves and the corsage are decorated en suite. The tunic style is also a good deal adopted in evening dress, that is to say, robes are trimmed down the front or round the borders in the tunic form, either with lace or bouillons, or, in some instances, with embroidery. Generally speaking, corsages are very low, more so indeed than strict delicacy would warrant; this is sometimes remedied by a pelerine of antique point lace, but we regret to say, that this fashion, at once becoming and dressy, is not very generally adopted. Nothing can be lighter or more graceful than the present style of ball dress. Some of the most novel are of tulle over white satin; the robe has two skirts, the upper one is raised on each side by a bouillon, and displays the second skirt trimmed with a rich lace flounce surmounted by embroidered bouquets at the parts where the upper skirt is looped. The corsage, which is in crossed drapery, is trimmed with lace set on below the drapery in front, and descending on the breast in a point. Short hanging sleeves of moderate size, composed of two bouillons terminated by a fall of lace. Velvet flowers are also very much in vogue for ball dresses; sometimes a wreath encircles the border, but it generally serves as the heading to a flounce, for there are very few dresses made without flounces. The flounce is frequently raised on one side in the drapery style, and the ends are looped under a bouquet which terminates the wreath. Flowers are also frequently disposed en tunique, or en tablier; but in whatever way they may be employed, they always produce an elegant and tasteful effect. Coiffures offer nothing novel; those for ball dress are always encheveux. Fashionable colours are the same as last month.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - October 1859 Peterson's Magazine

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - October 1859 Peterson's Magazine General Remarks As will be seen by our fashion plate, velvet will be very generally used as a trimming for winter dresses. This is an expensive ornament, but very rich and effective. Silks of solid colors will be very much worn with velvet trimmings. ONe of the most elegant dresses made recently in Paris was of Pearl-grey silk, with the skirt laid in large plaits behind, and slightly tending to form a train; it was trimmed at about twelve inches from the bottom with a deep quilling of silk, having between all the plaits a light red velvet forming at top a small loop fastened by a button, and at bottom a larger loop and an end fastened by a similar button. The sleeves, which were wide, lined with white, and tending to form a point, were trimmed with the same ornament as the bottom of the skirt. The body was plain, buttoned, with a large bow of light red velvet at top, and the opening of the pockets was marked by a wide, red velvet, and a row of ruched silk crossed by velvet. For Evening Dress, velvet of light colors is also employed. A very pretty dress for a young lady has been made of white tarletane, and has thirteen flounces, each bordered with a row of narrow rose-color velvet. The corsage, low and pointed in the centre of the waist, is covered by a berthe forming a point before and behind, and trimmed with rose-color velvet. The sleeves are short, and formed of two frills edged with velvet. Another very beautiful dress has just been made of lilac-colored silk. This dress has a low corsage and short sleeves. Over it is to be worn a canezou of white tulle. The body of the canezou is composed of puffings crossed at regular intervals by rows of very narrow black velvet. The sleeves consist of nine puffs, extending from the shoulder to the wrist, where they are finished by a small mousquetaire cuff; the puffs on the sleeves are separated by rows of black velvet. Some of the bodies lately made are cut open in front, to show a richly worked chemisette underneath, but the fashion has by no means become general yet. In fact, as the cold weather approaches, the tendency will most probably be to have the dresses cut quite close up to the throat. Sleeves still retain the pagoda form, in a great measure, particularly for the better style of dress: though for out-of-door wear, we are assured, the tight sleeve will be adopted during the winter. Flounces will not be so much worn during the coming winter as heretofore, or only one deep flounce will be worn. Velvet is much employed for evening head-dresses. Torsades of velvet and gold have a very rich and elegant effect. A bandeau of this description should be finished at the back of the head by a bow with long ends, finished with gold fringe, or tassels. A head-dress just introduced in Paris consists of a sort of coronet composed of plaited rolls of Azoff-green velvet. On one side there is a lappet of black lace, and on the other two small bouquets of the tea-rose. Caps suitable for dinner or evening demi-toilet are frequently made of colored crape, and trimmed with puffings of white tulle, amidst which are interspersed bouquets of flowers. For morning costume, caps are made on a foundation of colored silk, and covered with black or white lace. Green or lilac, with black lace, have a very pretty effect. Bonnets are worn somewhat longer in the head, with very large silk or velvet side bows, and wide flowing strings to match. The wreath of lilac or cherry-colored flowers, which nearly surround the face, are very fashionable; sometimes the flowers alternate with jet ornaments or black velvet, which produces a good effect.

Early Victoria Era Fashion Chit Chat - August 1857 Godey's Lady's Book

Early Victoria Era Fashion Chit Chat - August 1857 Godey's Lady's Book

Chitchat upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions for August

As we promised, in our last number, we continue our suggestions for the use of the travelling public, no one else being supposed to need anything new the present month, which borders so closely upon the first gay changes of raiment for the autumn.

We have spoken of the present style of morning-dress, which consists rather of a jacket and skirt, than the dressing-gown so long invariable. Peignoirs of delicate cashmere, in chintz patterns, with a colored border - of lawn and cambric, of chinie silk, and of embroidered cambric, are also worn. Breakfast caps are still in vogue, even for unmarried ladies, though this is not in strictly good taste. hey vary from a simple barbe of lace, or embroidery, to elaborate combinations of lace, ribbon, and flowers. As a general rule, a breakfast cap should be simple, and ornamented with ribbons only.

Our watering-place belle is an equestrienne, of course, and changes her robe for her habit and the morning ride. The skirt we have given is of course suitable for all times and seasons; but the hat and jacket are only intended for July, August, and the first weeks of September. Earlier and later, it is well to lay aside Marseilles and Leghorn for a cloth jacket and a hat of felt or beaver.

The most fashionable colors for riding-habits are dark mulberry, myrtle green, and black. They are ornamented more or less, as taste may dictate, with braid or embroidery in silk; but the most novel and distinguished are exceedingly plain. The only ornament on the corsage is a row of passementerie buttons, of the same color as the cloth, which fasten the corsage from the waist to the throat. At the edge of the basque, which is not very long, it is trimmed with a row of braid. The sleeves are plain; and at the upper part they fit rather close to the arm; at the lower part, they widen, the ends being turned up, and finished with a row of the same trimming as that at the edge of the basque. One of the new riding-hats, composed of gray felt, has a broad brim edged with gray ribbon. The brim is turned up a little at the sides; beneath it, at each ear, is a bow formed of loops of ribbon. The crown of this hat is small and round, and is nearly encircled by a long gray ostrich feather.

Following next in order, of the day's engagements, is the lunch, still in her habit, if she pleases, and the hour's seclusion before commencing a dinner or promenade toilet. We have always deprecated the admission of full dress to the table d'hete, and still think that the best taste will cover the arms and neck, at least by a lace fichu and sleeves. Indeed, with the pretty and becoming fichus and lace or muslin basques so much in vogue, there is no excuse for any, save very young ladies, school-girls, in fact, appearing without this slight drapery.

The delicate robe dresses of glace or chinee silk, barege, organdy, or any of the tissues, are most suitable for dinner and promeande dress. All elaborate ornament or gauzy fabrics should be reserved for the evening sociables, or "hops," which will give ample opportunity for their display. We quote several dresses as models, which may be relied on as suitable and in good taste.

A dinner-dress of black moire antique. It has a plain, full skirt, with a demi-train. The sleeves are trimmed with three frills of moire, each edged with a frill of black lace. A fichu, or cape, of Chantilly lace is worn with the dress.

The plain silks recently made up are trimmed with rows of fringe on the basque and sleeves. Owing to the solidity of the material, the skirts are usually without trimming. When the dress is made without a basque, a ribbon ceinture is worn; and it is fastened in a bow with flowing ends descending to the knees. Bows of ribbon are placed at the sleeves; and five small bows of ribbon fasten the front of the corsage.

There is an immense variety of styles for evening-dress intended for young ladies just coming out, all of them showing a freshness and simplicity of taste that recommend them. Among the plainer ones may be mentioned one of pink barege trimmed with three flounces, edged with stripes in satin of the same color. The corsage is low and full; and with it is worn a fichu of worked muslin, and a ceinture of pink ribbon with long flowing ends. The sleeves are formed of one puff and two frills. The under-sleeves also consist of a puff and two frills, the latter consisting of worked muslin.

Another, of white tarleton, has two skirts, each finished at the edge with a plain hem. A small chatelaine of roses descends from the waist over the double skirt on the left side. In front of the corsage, there is a bouquet composed of three roses; and a single rose ornaments each of the short sleeves. The coiffure adopted with this dress is a net of black chenille, with a small bouquet of roses on each side.

A dress of white silk, covered with three skirts of white thulle, is very becoming. The first and third skirts have a hem three inches wide and are raised - one on the right, and the other on the left - with a bouquet of daisies; whilst the second skirt, which is not raised, is made of double thulle, turned up underneath, and is puffed all round. The two lower skirts are five yards round, and the upper one three and a half. The corsage is covered with thulle, and has folds of double plaited thulle. A bouquet of daisies separates the folds in front, and terminates in a light cordon of daisies ending at the point. Tiny bouquets of the same flower are sprinkled over the draperies and the two small thulle-puffed sleeves. The coiffure is a cordon of red-tinted daisies, forming a garland, and passes between the bandeaux, gradually increasing in volume until it forms a large tuft of flowers on the back of the head.

Pink, blue, and amber are the favorite hues for dresses of colored tarleton. A dress of amber-color tarleton has been trimmed with two double flounces, above which, at intervals, are placed bows of black velvet. The corsage and sleeves are ornamented with loops and ends of black velvet. The headdress consists of bows of black velvet placed on one side, and sprays of scarlet and black velvet flowers on the other. A dress of pink tarleton has one deep flounce, which falls over the lower part of the skirt, and a tunic covering the upper part. The tunic is cut or pinked out at the edge in deep vandykes, and trimmed with a ruche. Between the vandykes, that is to say, at each of the upper angles formed by them, is fixed a bow with short ends of pink-watered ribbon. The flounce is finished at the edge merely by a hem. The corsage has a double berthe. The coiffure to be worn with this dress consists of roses and ivy. A novel and effective style of trimming has been employed for a blue tarleton dress. It is trimmed with three flounces, each edged with a wreath of lilac formed of white satin application. The corsage has a berthe composed of narrow frills, edged with trimming similar to that on the flounces. A bouquet of white lilac worn in the hair completes the costume.

The ball-wreaths just received from Paris include one of peculiar elegance. It consists of a wreath of foliage in green velvet, intermingled with the red berries of the service-tree. Each leaf is bordered by a narrow gold line. At the back, there are pendent sprays of small flowers in green and gold intermingled with red berries. Another wreath consists of roses, with bright green foliage veined with gold. A much-admired coiffure consists of wreaths of foliage in crimson velvet, intermingled with lilies of the valley in gold.

The iris is, at present, a very favorite flower, both for wreaths and for trimming ball-dresses. Dresses of thulle and lace have been made with flounces gathered up in festoons, fastened by sprays of iris combined with foliage in diamonds. Scarcely less beautiful are the wreaths, bouquets and sprays of sweet peas made in velvet. The rich and various hues of this flower contrast well with the white thulle, blonde, and other light textures usually selected for ball-dresses. Some very pretty wreaths of small roses, and wreaths composed of lilac of three kinds, viz., white, violet, and lilac intermingled, are destined to edge double and triple skirts of thulle, &c., or to descend from the waist to the edge of the skirt, and combine with trimmings placed on each side of the dress. One of the prettiest of the new ball-dresses recently made is composed of white thulle, and has three flounces trimmed with bouillonnes, in which are fixed, at intervals, sprays of forget-me-not. The contrast formed by this little blue flower on the thulle is very pretty; and, moreover, it somewhat presents the effect of turquoise. The corsage and sleeves of the dress just mentioned are trimmed with bouquets and sprays of forget-me-not.

Having furnished our stay at home friends with so much gossip of gayer life, we reserve the minor articles of tiny collars, Gabrielle ruffs, etc. etc. for another chat with them.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - April 1839 Ladies' Pocket Magazine

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - April 1839 Ladies' Pocket Magazine

Remarks on the Prevailing Paris Fashions

We next month bid adieu to winter modes; their costly magnificence and heavy splendour will then give way to the light attire of spring. We shall presently cite some of the novelties that are expected to be most in favour; but we must first say a few words of what is actually worn at present.

Velvet or satin mantles, trimmed either with fur or rich fringe, are most in favour in promenade dress at this moment. Shawls, that is to say, large Cashmere ones, of Egyptian or Turkish patterns, such as were worn last autumn, are, however, in a very respectable minority: in fact, they answer the purpose of a cloak, while at the same time they more fully display the robe over which they are worn. The materials and forms of promenade robes remain nearly as they were last month; they are composed of satins, reps, or rich pou de soie, and mostly made in the ridingote; that is to say, the pelisse robe form, with high bodies and sleeves a la Jardiniere. Hats and bonnets have note, up to the present moment, varied in the least from those we described last month.

At the period at which we write, we are within a few days of the promenade of Longchamps. We were accustomed to look to it as the opening of the summer fashions; but this year no such expectations can be entertained, as Easter falls too early to admit of any material change, at least for dresses. We have, however, seen some of the toilettes prepared for that occasion, which we consider well worthy of the attention of our fair readers.

We shall cite, as among the most striking, some pelisses of azure blue satin, lined with white satin. The corsage is made high behind, but descends in front, so as to form a demi coeur; it is trimmed with a pelerine lappel of moderate size, which is bordered, as is also the fronts and bottom of the pelisse, with a rouleau of swansdown. The corsage, we should observe, is amde tight to the shape; the sleeve is arranged at bottom and top in close folds, which confine it nearly to the arm, but it is wide in the centre; the folds are decorated with small rouleaus of swansdown, turned round them en serpente. From the number of orders that have been given for these pelisses, we have great reason to believe that they will be very much in favour during the whole of April, and most probably for a great part of May. Spencers of velours epingle of light colours, as rose, blue, or green, are also expected to be very general. Those intended for Longchamps are made quite high, and ornamented in general with rich fancy silk trimming, corresponding in colour. They will be worn with collars and cuffs of antique point lace; and we have seen a few, but very few, to which a row of lace round the bottom of the waist was added; it is placed full and deep behind but nearly plain and very narrow in front. It has a smart and dressy effect.

Some hats both of rice and Italian straw, will make their appearance, but nothing is yet positively decided as to the new shapes. Those that we have seen composed of Italian straw were of a large size, and principally decorated either with marabouts or white ostrich feathers. The ribbons are principally white, a rich dead ground, figured in satin; but we have seen some of white or straw-coloured grounds, figured in delicate hues, and in new patterns. Rice straw hats are much smaller, but they also have the brims very open. Some are trimmed with feathers, but the majority are decorated with flowers. All the early ones of the season are in request. We have noticed among the new wreaths one of violets, of a singular form; it encircled the crown in an oblique direction, descending quite to the bottom on the left side; a full gerbe of flowers issued from that end of the wreath, and crossed the brim also in an oblique direction, nearly to the edge of it; the interior was adorned with blond lace, disposed in dents le loup over the forehead, and looped at each temple by a small tuft of violets. This is a decidedly novel and very tasteful style of trimming. A few white pou de soie bonnets have been prepared for Langchamps, but they do not offer anything decided as to the forms that will be adopted, as they are principally modifications of the Bibi. One among them, we may venture to pronounce, will not become fashionable; it is a small cottage-bonnet, of quite the old-fashioned English shape. The spring colours will be various shades of rose and green, lilac, lavender bloom, pearl grey, and cherry.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - October 1840 Godey's Lady's Book

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - October 1840 Godey's Lady's Book

As the theatres in the principal cities of the Union have opened for the winter season, and as parties will soon commence, we give a description of a variety of head dresses and other ornaments, suitable for places of amusement, evening parties and ball rooms.

Some head dresses are formed by a pearl or gold bandeau, which crosses the forehead, and two large Italian pins which traverse the tresses of hair, arranged in bows almost on the nape of the neck, and crossing in such a manner as nearly to touch the ears. Several of these head dresses have the front hair arranged in soft bands, but ringlets are more in favour.

Turbans. Those of plain velvets, either white or black, and fringed with gold, are remarkably elegant, and are placed very far back upon the head. Some are made without a foundation, so as to suffer the tresses in which the hind hair is arranged to pass through; others, instead of a velvet foundation, have one formed of gold net or beads; these last are peculiarly elegant. The turbans composed of English point lace, with very small foundations, and ornamented with two points drooping on the sides, and retained as high as the temples by jewelled crescents, are very beautiful. Others have the ends falling at each side, and retained near the temples by two half wreaths of roses, without leaves.

Small Bonnets. Those formed only of trio lace lappets, and two sprigs of velvet flowers, are much in request for the theatre; these are considered as an elegant coiffure for a young married lady. They are adopted also in ball dress by those who do not dance.

Hair. The front hair in bands, with or without the ends braided, and turned up again, or in long full ringlets. The back hair is still worn dresses as low as possible at the back of the neck, in braids, chignons, and rouleaux. Lappets are frequently intermixed with the flowers. Feronnieres are very fashionable.

Toeques have lost nothing of their vogue. They are composed of velvet, and encircled with folds of velvet forming an aureole; a large sprig of flowers composed of jewels, is placed on one side, and droops over the other, in the style of a bird of paradise. Some are made with the sprig composed of gold flowers instead of jewels.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1857 Godey's Lady's Book

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1857 Godey's Lady's Book

Chit Chat Upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions for November

As our fashion-plate would indicate, we have arrived at the season for carriage wraps, and even heavier winter mantles, which, if they are not worn, are chiefly purchased the present month.

The Basquine, introduced the past winter by Brodie and others, has gained ground, and will be a more general favorite the present season - especially those designed by Brodie, who has modified the rigor of their outline, to which many objected, by the addition of a berthe, heavily trimmed with fringe or grelots, and a greater sweep to the basque, which may be drawn close to the figure, if desired, by a simple and convenient arrangement. With all due respect to our Parisian designer, we must confess that, in this instance, we think Brodie has surpassed him in grace and elegance.

The Madrid, another mantle furnished by the same house, has the effect of a succession of capes, or slightly pointed talmas, increasing in depth and fulness to the jupe. The most desirable cloaks made in this style are of black cloth, trimmed with a contrast, as a fringe, plain or with grelots, of purple, green, etc., just sufficiently marked to be a relief, and a decided novelty from the plain black of the past two seasons. Our readers must not suppose that, in color, they are to be confined entirely to this sombre shade. By no means; as, in the most dashing of the basquines, Mr. Brodie has introduced a combination of fawn or mode-colored beaver cloth, with deep bands of plush, having the effect of fur, without its costliness, and has added coquettish little side pockets of the same, just tipped with a grelot. Mode colors in combination, so much the style in years past, are again coming up, fashion just putting forth a few tokens to that effect in cloaks, while it is decided in bonnets.

Of the velvet mantles, we prefer those depending chiefly upon the gracefulness of their shape (especially as adjusted to meet the demands of crinoline at the waist, though fitting quite close to the upper part of the figure), and the richness of the fringe with which they are ornamented. This fringe is in every conceivable variety and depth, mixed with bugles, grelots, chenille, etc., and with a heading equally rich and varied. Among Mr. Brodie's importations - for we do not hesitate to say that we prefer to depend chiefly upon his taste and skill, since it is better to confine ourself to one house in our descriptions, as we have before explained - we notice, for richness as well as simplicity, a velvet mantle, known as the Empress. It is very ample, falling far below the line of the waist, which is, however, plainly marked by a circular fall of the rich fringe to which we have alluded, ten or twelve inches in depth. Below, the velvet is quite plain to the outer circle of fringe, which finishes the garment. Above, a fine pattern of heavy embroidery adds to the costliness and elegance of the garment.

We shall speak of travelling-wraps, etc., in our next, but must now turn to the materials and styles for dresses.

The richest and most novel silks are known as robes d quille. To these, we have before alluded. The skirts are plain, with the exception of a breadth on each side of the centre, which has a rich pattern woven, as were the flounces a disposition, into the silk. There is a graduated width or slope, broad at the bottom, and narrow as it approaches the waist. Among the most elegant silks of this style, we notice those of rich brown, blue, mode, violet, or green grouns, the pattern being in raised velvet, as wreaths of leaves, roses without foliage, shamrocks, Greek or oriental scrolls, etc., all so much raised as to have the effect of being cut out and stamped, as for a garland, and laid on to the plain but effective ground. Others have the same ground, with a pattern in colors, the effect being that of rich embroidery. In cashmere, poplin, and other fall and winter fabrics, this same style is reproduced. There is, of course, a narrower border of the same design, for the flounces of the sleeves, basques, etc.

Robes a disposition, with the invariable three flounces, are by no means obsolete, many having been imported of great richness and beauty; and ladies of a tall or slender figure do well in still adhering to the graceful fashion. The same effect is produced by bordering a plain silk with a richly variegated ribbon.

Naturally enough, the fashion of the day follows the caprice of the manufacturer. Skirts, whether single or double, are trimmed at the side, as in one of our designs (see steel fashion-plate). Black is not unfrequently introduced, with a plain blue or green, while these shades are combined with mode colors. In double skirts, only the upper one is trimmed, as a general thing. The upper skirt should always have the greater fulness, so as not to confine that beneath it. A deep fringe, plain or mixed with grelots, bugles, etc., is added frequently to the upper skirt. Basques or jackets return with the heavier materials of autumn and winter; though, of course, in evening-dress, a poined or round bodice is still retained. They are worn extremely long. In many cases, the fringe is woven exactly for them, deep behind, sloping on the hip, and lighter in front. Black velvet and grelots are worn with nearly every material. Sleeves are made exceedingly wide at the bottom, whether trimmed with flounces, or in the Venetian form; that is, long and pointed. Two puffs, with a deep flounce, are the reigning style. Square sleeves, with one puff, and slit up on the forearm, have also been introduced. A pretty shape for a close sleeve is a short plai jockey, slit up, and a long puffing introduced from the top to the bottom, where they are terminated by a turned up cuff, also slit open, like the cuffs of a riding-glove or gauntlet.

So far, jacket bodies are closed to the throat, a becoming fashion, with the present small round collars.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1839 Ladies' Pocket Magazine

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1839 Ladies' Pocket Magazine

Remarks on the Prevailing London Fashions

The fashionable season opens early and splendidly this year, so much the better say we, for the luxuries of the rich, whatever may be said against them, give bread to the poor; but without entering upon a subject, which truth to say, is not exactly within our province, let us see what novelties have appeared in winter costume since the publication of our last number.

Cloaks are so generally adopted in plain walking dress, that we see scarcely any thing else. We perceive that those of plain silk are in a decided majority. The few shawls that are worn in walking dress are composed of velvet or satin, they are trimmed with fur, and are so large that they envelope the figure almost as completely as a cloak. Walking bonnets are, generally speaking, in good taste, they are either black or dark-coloured velvets, trimmed with rich but quiet-looking shaded ribbons, to which a sprig of winter flowers is sometimes added; or else they are of the cottage shape, composed either of velvet ot satin, and simply trimmed with ribbons, either shaded or with a plain middle, which always corresponds with the bonnet, and one or two full-coloured stripes at each edge; a bouquet of short feathers drooping on the brim is sometimes added; this is an exceedingly gentlewomanly style of bonnet, but, in our opinion, too dressy for plain walking costume. We must observe that muffs and boas are now indispensable appendages to walking dress. We have seen also some, but as yet very few, of those excessively large fur tippets, which the furriers call shawls.

Furs have lost nothing of their vogue in carriage costume, but as we have already spoken of the manner in which they are employed for cloaks, mantilets, &c. we have only to observe that we have lately seen a few very fine cashmere pelisses, trimmed with sable. These pelisses, which are to be worn over robes, are made rather large; they are wadded and lined with coloured silk, and from their sitting close to the figure they are much more comfortable envelopes than either cloaks or shawls: there are, however, some of the latter just coming into vogue, and likely to have a great run, which we think are very elegant and lady-like. We mean camels' hair shawls; some are of one colour only, with a binding composed of silk and gold thread; others are exquisitely embroidered in silk, and a mixture of gold or silver. We need hardly observe that these shawls will be likely to remain a long time fashionable, as their very high price will prevent their becoming common.

We may cite, among the most elegant of the new carriage bonnets, those of plain velvet, or satin of the half cottage shape; they are trimmed with a small round rosette of ribbon placed under the curtain at the back of the crown, and with the ends falling into the neck; by raising the curtain a little an air of smartness is given to the bonnet; the crown is encircled with a ribbon twisted negligently round the bottom of it. Changeable ribbons are in a decided majority, but they are not so profusely employed as they were last month. Sprigs of foliage, of vivid shades of green, are in great favour for the trimmings of bonnets; feathers are sometimes employed, but flowers of foliage are preferred.

Satin is for the moment quite out of favour for hats; plain and fancy velvet and tery velvet, are the only materials adopted. Some of the prettiest hats that have appeared within the last month are composed of pale blue terry velvet, and trimmed with the same material, intermingled with white blond lace; a bouquet of short white feathers, tipped with blue, is placed very far back at the bottom of the crown, and rises above it almost in a perpendicular position; the interior of the brim is trimmed with coques of blue and white ribbon. Black velvet hats trimmed with the same material, the knots edged with feather fringe, have an elegant effect.

Several of the new evening robes, both of satin, velvet, and pekin, are trimmed with black lace. Generally speaking, lace, both black and white, is very much in vogue for trimming silk dresses. Fancy black, indeed, is getting so much into favour, that we have seen even ball dresses composed of black gauze, and trimmed with flounces of the same material, but they were looped in the drapery style by roses. Tight corsages are more in vogue than draped ones, and several are trimmed with lace pelerine mantillas, some of which are cut in points on the shoulders and bosom. We have noticed that a good many long sleeves are made with the upper part disposed in a moderately full bouillon; the remainder of the sleeve is large, and it is terminated by a cuff a little resembling a gauntlet cuff, but much prettier. Short sleeves are always tight at the top, but a bouillon or a ruffle gives fulness to the lower part.

Turbans of gold blond lace, or gold and silver silks of a fillagre pattern, have been introduced last month in evening dress. The prettiest evening hats are of groseille terry velvet, ornamented with long marabout plumes, which wind round the brim and then droop upon the neck. Fashionable colours are several full shades of red, dark and light green, and blue, different shades of brown, and orange. Light colours are also fashionable in evening dress.

Early Victorian Fashion chit Chat - August 1840 Godey's Lady's Book

Early Victorian Fashion chit Chat - August 1840 Godey's Lady's Book

Chit Chat of Fashions

At a late drawing room held by Queen Victoria, Lady Dinorbin, late Miss Smith (no relation to our Mr. Smith,) wore the following splendid dress.

Costume de Coeur, a splendid white pompadour satin train, sprigged with rich gold and coloured boquets, and trimmed with rich gold dentelle; a rich whiteIndia muslin dress, embroiderd with fine gold, and trimmed with two volants of rich gold dentelle, over white satin. Head-dress, plume of feathers, with rich gold dentelle lappets and diamonds.

The dress of D'Israelis' wife was also very rich, at the same time remarkable for its simplicity.

A mantea of rich pale green satin, lined with white, and trimmed with blonde; body and sleeves a Medicis, superbly ornamented with a profusion of the finest diamonds; petticoat of tulle, embroidered in a novel and beautiful style, forming boquets of various colours. A head dress of feathers and blonde lappets; ornaments, a splendid suite of diamonds and emeralds.

The Queen's dress - white net over rich white satin, trimmed with blonde flounces and flowers; the body and sleeves splendidly ornamented with diamonds and blonde; train of silver tissue, richly brocaded in colours, (of Spitalfields manufacture,) trimmed with silver and blonde, and lined with white satin. Head-dress, feathers, diamonds, and lappets.

The Duchess of Northumberland - Manteau of superb lilac satin glace, lined with silk, and ornamented with a bouffant of satin, with a deep fringe of pearls surrounded with a flouncing of Spanish point lace; corsage of the same, decorated with magnificent point lace, intermixed with pearls; stomacher of diamonds; skirt of lilac aerophane over a rich satinslip of the same colour, glace, tastefully trimmed with flounces of point lace and fringes of pearls. Head-dress, feathers an point lace lappets, and magnificent tiara of diamonds; necklace and ear-rings en suite.

Caps are more or less ornamented with flowers. There are other pretty coiffures, between a cap and a turban, the crown is that of a cap; but in place of the blonde border there is a roll of gauze, exactly such as would be to a turban - it may be with or without a falling end. The flowers adoped in these caps are hop-blossoms, in every possible colour. They are placed as low as where the cap-string should come on each side. Indeed all the trimmings are worn unusually low at the sides.

Hats - The hats are getting smaller, and a more becoming shape. The front and crown seems all of one piece, and towards the back the form gradually slants, so that the back of the crown is even lower than the bonnet. These little bonnets sit very round and comfortable to the face; they come very long at the sides; the trimming is as simple as possible, or quite the contrary. Some have flowers andlace; others only a trimming of the material.

Sleeves - The plain, tight, long sleeves are coming in again decidedly, notwithstanding all that has been said against them; it must be admitted that they are sadly disadvantageous to some figures, viz., to those remarkably tall and thin, or to those inclined to embonpoint and low in stature.

Head Dresses - One of the prettiest caps that has appeared for some time, is composed of rose-coloured gauze; the caul is so very small that it does little more than cover the knot of hair behind. The front is formed of three rows of gauze bias, quilled full, and encircling the caul in such a manner as to form a diadem on the summit of the head, descending at the sides, and turning up at the back of the caul. A full knot of satin riband, with floating end, adorns one side, and a rose, with buds and foliage, ornaments the other.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - September 1855 Godey's Lady's Book

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - September 1855 Godey's Lady's Book

Chitchat upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions for September

"People," in the Grundy sense, are beginning to arrive from watering-places and the country, with the first demand of absentees, fall bonnets. Belgian straws, satin straws of mixed colors, as brown and white, black and white, or Leghorns, are the decided favorites. The first is trimmed with a mixture of ribbon and black blonde as simply as may be, with perhaps a few field-flowers inside the cap, or a bouquet on one side, mixed with lace. One of the most elegant we have seen had a large crimson poppy, with a black heart; buds and leaves arranged around it, as above; the strings were, of course, a rich crimson and black ribbon. This bonnet was appropriately worn with a black silk dress and mantle. Leghorns are much trimmed with straw in bands, bouquets, rosettes, etc. Black and white satin straws are the favorite bonnets in half mourning; they have black taffeta ribbon and straw gimps mingled in loops, bands, and bows. Those who have the transparent straws through the summer sometimes prefer to have them made up over dark shades of blue or green to purchasing entirely new bonnets. Most of the fancy braids will do up to look almost as well as new for a second season, particularly French lace straws, and even Neapolitans. The autumn ribbons are, as usual, very rich in color and variety of shading. Plaids and stripes of moire and velvet, with taffeta, either in the same or contrasting colors, are the favorites. Never was there a season when ribbons were more in use for dresses, mantles, even chemisettes and undersleeves. In all our large cities, "ribbon stores have become a feature." They sometimes have embroideries also; but other establishments deal in nothing else. Every hue of the rainbow - every shade of heaviness or delicacy in material is represented. Velvet, moire, taffeta, gauze, and mixtures of all these, in widths from half an inch to six inches, are to be found.

Dress-trimmings are so varied as scarcely to be described. The fall dress silks correspond with the ribbons, or rather the ribbons are made to correspond with the more substantial fabrics; these things do not come by chance. You choose your dress at Stewart's or Levy's, and send it to Miss Wharton's or Madame Le Place. Youa re surprised at the exact match of the fringe, the galloons, the ribbon-bows employed in making it up; but long ago last spring, when you were purchasing tissues and foulards, the manufacturer of dress goods at Lyons, and the weaver of ribbons at Spitalfields, had planned it all for you and your mantua-maker. The importers' orders had been filled by their cards of designs, and the "Moniteur" in Paris had set forth the due combination of each in bretelles, knots, and flounces, as suggestions for the taste and ingenuity of our oracles of fashion. Alexandrine and Madame Ple Horain are already designing the models ordered by Lawson or Miss Wharton; these are, in turn, recopied by less stylish houses, and so spread throughout our country, from Maine to New Orleans, growing less and less like the original, until, as is the case with more celebrated works of art, the artist would never recognize the work of her own hand.

Nor even in Paris do we find bonnets, dresses, and mantles springing entirely by chance or the inspiration of genius. Manufacturers give the prevailing style of color and material in their stuffs and tissues; these are supplied by artists regularly educated in the School of Design, familiar with all that is graceful in combination of shape and coloring by natural taste and long study. The national costumes of the different countries are all in their portfolios. Titian furnishes a drapery, Vandyke a collar, Watteau a coiffeure. Fashion's wheel revolves as well as fortune's; but the presiding goddess is far from blind. The Empress Eugenie alone - the empress of the nation that dictates for the rest of the world - had the unhappy destiny of being her closest devotee. We believe she is the only woman in the world compelled to wear a new dress on every appearance, no matter how comfortable, or how becoming a robe she may happen to fancy. This is not exacted even of the English queen, who follows far behind her most brilliant contemporary. What weariness of pomps and vanities must creep in with all this pride and circumstance of the toilette! What an inroad upon time and comfort must "tire-women" and ladies in waiting make!

Take, in contrast, the heart-burnings and secret repining of the poor woman, whose highest ambition is one new dress, and perhaps a solitary bonnet, or even bonnet-ribbon in a year, or the more ignoble trials of a would-be city fashionist. If fashion be made the chief object of any woman's life, she subjects herself to unending annoyances and disappointments, while deference to it in some degree, in accordance to the age, station, and means of a person, is not only allowable, but desirable.

But we have suffered ourselves to give a "homily" instead of a "chat," and refer our lady readers back to the clippings of the centre-table for livelier gossip on the never-wearying theme of FASHION.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - May 1859 Peterson's Magazine

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - May 1859 Peterson's Magazine

Remarks - Double skirts will be the most fasionable for all plain materials; generally the first skirt is plain; the second may be left open ath the sides or not, both styles are in favor; plaitings a vicille of the same material, or ribbon to match, is a very favorite trimming for these skirts: side trimmings en quille of rows of black velvet, which decrease toward the waist, are also much worn: the Grecian border in velvet will be introduced for plain silks, the border being on both skirts; the velvet will be of a darker shade than the silk. Plaid trimmings will be extremely fashionable, both for silks and poplins; we have seen one dress in preparation for a lady of position, having the first skirt of plain poplin; the second of plaided poplin; the body and sleeves to correspond. Moire antiques, and silks with very large plaids are worn with one skirt only; they are made long, with a slight train, and are very full. Bodies a la Bernoise will certainly be fashionable; they will not always be in velvet, but will correspond with the trimming of the dress. Except for evening dress, bodies are made high to the throat; many are now made with round waists; others with five points, and some with four short points, one in the front, at the back, and on the hips; those bodies that have basquines, have them cut very deep.

Bonnets - In these there is but little change. Mr. Wilde, No 251 Broadway, New York, has furnished us with the two, given in the front of the number; and they will show the manner of trimming as well as the shapes.

Caps - The Breakfast-Cap and Morning-Cap exhibit the latest novelties. They are from patterns just received from Paris. The head-dress is from Wilde, No 251 Broadway, New York.

Mantillas - Tese are in every variety of style, and can be purchased, ready-made, this spring, nearly as cheaply as they can be fabricated at home. We engrave one, in addition to those already mentioned; a summer article, quite graceful.

Sleeves - We have engraved two new shapes. Sleeves are still worn wide, whether open or puffed; the favorite style are those open in nearly their whole length, showing the full under-sleeve; these generally close to the wrist, and are ornamented with bows of ribbon or velvet. The full bishop sleeve will be worn, not reaching quite to the wrist, and the band at the bottom loose, either finished by a deep lace ruffle, or having a full bouillon sleeve below it.

Capes - We give a very stylish pattern.

Early Victorian Fashion Chit Chat - April 1839 Ladies' Pocket Magazine

Early Victorian Fashion Chit Chat - April 1839 Ladies' Pocket Magazine

Remarks on the Prevailing London Fashions

This is the month when public breakfasts and evening parties are at the height of their splendour; it mingles in fact the magnificence of winter with the light elegance of spring. At present, evening dress is in the height of its splendour, but before we proceed to speak of it, we must tell our readers what changes are immediately expected to take place in out-door costume.

First then for hats and bonnets. Italian straw already begins to be seen in the first, and there is not the smallest doubt that it will enjoy even greater vogue than last season. There seems not to be quite the same certainty as to rice straw, though we have great reason to think that its vogue will be little diminished. Drawn bonnets composed of pou de soie of white and light colours, are expected to be much in favour. Black lace will assuredly go out in trimmings, so that white is expected to retain its vogue. Flowers will be adopted, both for hats and bonnets; the new shapes for either, are not positiovely fixed, but it is expected that at least, in the commencement of the season, Italian straw hats will be worn large, and those of any other material, of moderate size. Bonnets will have the brims decidedly shorter than those worn at present, and less evase.

Some new spring shawls of Cachemirienne have appeared; their light and beautiful texture is admirably adapted to the season; they are embroidered in fancy patterns, or else bordered with a very light and beautiful fringe. Mantelets of pou de soie, or gros de Turquie trimmed with Swansdown will also be very fashionable. We can announce with certainty that, swansdown will be in vogue during the early part of the spring. We may cite among the most eleant evening robes, those of white brocade figured in gold, or plain white satin, trimmed with gold blond lace. The corsages remain long, and are lightly pointed in some instances, in others the print is so deep as to have a very formal effect. A new style of corsage, which is highly advantageous to the shape, is composed of different pieces placed perpendicularly and straight; a corsage of this kind forms the shape admirably.

Sleeves retain their juste milieu, and it is said that it will continue, but we must protest against pledging ourselves to that. Fashion is so variable, that even the best informed are liable to be deceived, and we have known more than one instance in which, after a mode has been considered positively settled, it has been laid aside before it could hardly be said to be seen. The form most in favour for long sleeves is the demi large; they are arranged in large folds, which sit nearly close to the arm, and are placed perpendicularly both at bottom and top, the centre part remaining moderately full; sleeves for balls and evening parties are invariably made short, tight upon the shoulder and a little below it, and the remainder composed of a single full bouillons, or different rows of small ones. Ruffles still retain all their vogue, and it is generally believed that it will continue.

Never were turbans in greater request in evening dress than at present; the forms vary, but all are made small, that is to say, the foundations low, and the folds in front of very moderate height. Some are made with tied ends, which float over the neck at each side, this has not however; so graceful an effect as a long scarf-like end, which falls on one side only. Some turbans are decorated with feathers, but a great many have no other ornament than their own graceful folds. The prettiest, and most simple, among the evening hats are those of white terry velvet, trimmed with bouquets of flowers, either fancy roses, or else of different other flowers mingled with heath blossoms. Caps are as recherche as ever, nothing can be more simple than their forms, small, round, quite of the village description in short, but the materials are of the most costly kind. Some are of gold or silver blond lace, and others of Brussels, or Mechlin, which is still more expensive. Velvet flowers still continue to be the only ones employed for trimming caps, fashionable colours will be lemon and pea green, lilac, pink, drab, sky-blue, canary yellow, and various neutral tints.

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - September 1857 Godey's Lady's Book

Early Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - September 1857 Godey's Lady's Book

Chitchat upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions for September

It will be seen, by reference to our fashion-plate for the present month, that flounces no longer hold undisputed sway. Many will still continue to wear them through the winter; and some handsome robes are woven d volante; that is, with pattern flounces. Others, equally rich, have a pattern extending lengthwise of the skirt, on either side the front breadth, en tablier, as it is called. It has the effect of a very broad rich ribbon, laid on perfectly flat and plain. For another trimming, disposed in a similar manner, we refer our readers to Fig 1 of our plate. Puffs, of the same silk as the dress, in three or four longitudinal rows, are much in favor. This has a charming effect in evening-dress, say of white silk, the puffs in illusion, and graduated in widths, filling a whole breadth at the bottom of the dress, and bordered on each side by a row of blonde laid on flat. The sleeves are composed of puffs to correspond; and the corsage, which is a rounded point, has a puff edged as on the skirt, extending from the centre of the neck to the waist line, carried a little to the left of the point to avoid stiffness.

It is said that basques are really giving away to corsages similar in shape to that we have just described, the rounded point. This is an alarm, however, that is sounded at the commencement of every season; and it will take two or three months to decide the question. Double skirts continue to be worn; and a new way of mounting them has been introduced. The plaits are made so large that four or five go round the waist; and this throws out the skirt, extending it like a fan. A robe of gray moire antique, made in this way, the two skirts without ornament, has a very fine effect. The corsage (there is no basque) was finished by buttons of gray passementerie, with pendants of the old style, known as "frogs" in the days of the last generation, but dignified into brandebourgs in this. The sleeves are plain at the top, with a puff, and three deep falls of the silk, edged with gray galloon, and trimmed with brandebourgs, as on the corsage. The passementerie of the present autumn, in which we include all fancy silk buttons, gimps, and fringes with rich headings, is very varied and costly. Jet and pearl are inwoven with many of them; and bells and acorns of silk are still used in the same manner.

As the season advances, dresses of plain or striped dark poplin will be worn. The body is high, with very long lappets, and is trimmed with bands of black velvet on the breast. These bands are placed across almost from one shoulder to the other, gradually diminshing in length as they approach the waist. At the end of each band, there is a pendent silk button, and two in the middle. Around the lappets are placed velvet points, with buttons on them. The sleeves are tight to the elbow, where there is a velvet band; and the sleeve terminates in two very ample flounces, with velvet ribbon on the edge. The skirt is either perfectly plain, or trimmed down each side with bands of velvet and buttons.

Among the robes with flounces a volante is one of black silk, having the effect of embroidery in colored silk. The pattern consists of a wreath of wheat-ears and blue cornflowers. The corsage is half high, and has a berthe and a cntre-piece embroidered in a pattern corresponding with the flounces. The sleeves consist of two large puffs, separated by an embroidered wreath. The undersleeves are of thulle, ornamented with embroidery in a pattern of wheat-ears and corn-flowers, intermingled with light foliage. This dress is destined for in-door dinner costume. And in the hair will be worn bloue corn-flowers and wheat-ears of velvet, intermingled with black lace. Lappets of black lace flow over the back of the neck. Moss roses.

A wedding-dress just completed is made of white tarleton, trimmed with three flounces of the same, each edges with a ruche of white ribbon. The tarleton flounces are covered by flounces of the most splendid Honiton lace. The corsage is profusely ornamented with Honiton lace.

Many of the novelties in the department of lingerie are very elegant. The most fashionable style of undersleeves are those with broad turned-up cuffs of lace or needle-work, and trimmed with colored ribbon. Others are formed of two large puffs of muslin, intermingled with small bows of colored ribbon.

Instead of a collar, a small ruff is now sometimes worn round the throat. A ruff just introduced in Paris is distinguished by the name of the Fraise a la Gabrielle. It is formed of a narrow slip of quilled muslin, edged at each side by a narrow row of Valenciennes. In the middle of the quilling, there is a puff of muslin, within which is run a colored ribbon; and the ruff is fixed in front of the throat by a bow of the same.

This will be good news to those of our lady friends who have to dress for a long nexk or square shoulders: Small tufts of feathers are this season much employed in ornamenting headdresses for evening costume. Among the coiffures which have just been complted may be mentioned one composed of thulle and blonde, in the form of a toque. On one side are two tufts of feathers, the one blue, and the other white. On the opposite side are loops and flowing ends of white and blue therry velvet ribbon. A much admired headdress consists of pendent sprays of violets in gold and in velvet of three different tints. These sprays, which are intermingled with loops of gold beads, droop towards the back of the neck. On each side are attached two strings of gold beads. Another headdress consists of a net formed of red velvet. The net is trimmed all round with sprays of the small Corinth grape, in gold, intermingled with the red berries of the service-tree, in velvet, and with ends of red velevet ribbon lame with gold. Among the recent importations from Paris is a very beautiful headdress, styled the coiffure Egyptienne. It is formed of two bandeaux of groseille-color velvet, embroidered with gold; and on one side there is a lotus flower, and on the other a bow of groseille-color ribbon, figured with hieroglyphics in gold.