Monday, June 4, 2012

Early Victorian Era Fashion Plate - April 1852 Le Moniteur de la Mode

Early Victorian Era Fashion Plate - April 1852 Le Moniteur de la Mode Description of the Engravings - No. 324 1st Figure - Walking Dress - Bonnet of green crape and taffeta, trimmed with black lace and ribbons. The brim is trimmed all round the edge with a crape bouillonne which is confined over creves of green ribbon, confined at intervals by small twist rosettes. The band of the brim and the crown is fluted afeta, the edge of the band near the crown is also held by ribbon creves. The two rows of creves are decorated with black lace; the top of crown is soft and covered with crape. The curtain is taffein surrounded with crape like the edge of the brim; a double bow with two loose ends falls behind. The inside of the brim is trimmed with two rows of black lace, and on each side two branches of white and common lilac, one upwards, the other downwards, with green foliage shaded brown. Dress and mantelet of taffeta, with taffeta applications of another colour. The bottom plain and high; buttoned all the way up. Skirt with three flounces terminated by an application of a different taffeta. The mantelet scarf is composed of a lapel turned back shawl-fashion, and a flounce gathered under the bottom of the part forming the mentelet. On the lapel there is only one row of application in the scollop shape, at bottom there are two; on the flounce three. The flounces of the skirt have two rows of scollops on the first, three on the second; four on the third. This trimming is made with taffeta application, and the festoons forming the scollops are formed with silk braid held down by a large festoon stitch. As it is not easy to obtain very wide braid of coloured silk, two may be laid beside each other. Each of these trimmings is terminated by a frosted fringe barely an inch deep. 2nd Figure - Little Girl of Ten or Twelve - White taffeta drawn bonnet composed of bouillonnes, sitting well round the face. Round crown, curtain with three rows. The inside of the brim is covered with narrow blonds and the cheeks are accompanied by tufts of white daisies. Waistcoat of white watered silk; high, buttoning up straight; little green buttons. Lappets and skirt of taffeta trimmed with velvet. The lappet is very scant; high behind, open in front; it is confined at the waist by a short band and two buttons. The skirt rounds well on the hipand forms behind a double plait in the caraco shape. The pagoda sleeves are hollowed on each side, so as to form a roundish point both on the upper and under side. The skirt has three flounces trimmed at the edges with a velvet an inch and a quarter wide; then half an inch above the wide velvet there is another of No 1. Two rows of narrow lace stand up to form the collar. The under-sleeve follows the shape of the upper one; it is composed of two rows of embroidered insertions with two narrow valenciennes; these two rows are placed one higher than the other. Same arrangement for the trowsers. 3rd Figure - Little Boy of Five or Six - Felt hat with wide undulated brims; spherical crown. A black satin ribbon, passing through a steel buckle goes round the crown; a large black satin bow is set on one side, and from it hang two long ends of broad black satin ribbon. This beautiful hat was made by M. Desprey, hatter, 38, boulevard des Italiens. Wide Charles I. collar of open embroidery tied with two small cords having tassels at the end. Skirt and pardessus of violet watered silk. The latter is cut high and round in the back neck; the waist is hollowed so as to give width to the bottom without having recourse to plaits. The sleeves, half short, have a satin cuff. A broad satin ribbon runs down the front and round the bottom of the pardessus. The under garment is also of watered silk. On the skirt, which is arranged in hollow plaits at the waist, it does not stand out, but forms flutes all round the bottom. The under-sleeve is openwork embroidery; as is the bottom of the pantaloons also. The gaiters are black cloth with blue steel buttons.

No comments:

Post a Comment