Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Early Victorian Era Fashion Plate - April 1852 Le Moniteur de la Mode

Early Victorian Era Fashion Plate - April 1852 Le Moniteur de la Mode Description of the Engravings - No. 323 1st Figure - Coiffure a La Jeune Femme - The parting is on the left side, and the hair lies in close curls on each side. Dress of white taffeta with coloured figures, a particular pattern for each part of the dress. The ground of the skirt and body are sprinkled with small Pompadour bouquets en jardiniere, that is to say with flowers of different colours in graduated shades. The flounces have scolloped edges; the ground is white and over each scollop is a rich bouquet of various flowers. The body is very high behind; it opens square in front, and the middle of the opening is even a little wider than the top (this cut is more graceful than the straight one). The waist is very long, especially at the sides: the front ends in a rounded point not very long. The bottom of the body is trimmed with a ruche composed of small white ribbons mixed with others. This ruche is continued on the waist and meets at the bottom of the point. There are three bows of chine ribbon on the middle of the body. The upper one has double bows and ends; the other two gradually smaller. The sleeves are rather wide, and open a little behind at the side. The opening is rounded; the edge is trimmed with a ruche like the body. There is a small lace at the edge of the body. The lace sleeves are the same form as those of the stuff, but they are longer. 2nd Figure - Drawn Bonnet of Blond and Satin - The brim is very open at the sides and lowered a little in front. It is transparent for a depth of four inches, and consists of five rows of gathered blond, on each of which is sewed a narrow white terry velvet ribbon, No 4. This brim, made of Lyons tulle, is edged with a white satin roll. The band of the crown is Tuscan straw on which are five drawings of white satin. The top of the crown is round and of white satin; it is puffed in creves. The curtain is blond like the brim. The ornament consists of a white satin bow placed quite at the side of the brim and near the edge. The inside of the brim is trimmed with four rows of blond, each having a narrow pink terry velvet, and a wreath of roses, small near the forehead, larger near the cheeks. Blond is mixed with the flowers. Redingote of moire antique; body high, with six lozenge-shaped openings in front, diminishing in size towards the waist. The edges of these lozenges are trimmed with velvet; the points meet like hands under a button. Through these lozenge openings there appears a white muslin habit-shirt, gathered in small flutes (the muslin, however close, always projects through the openings under the pressure of the body.) The habit-shirt is finished at the neck by two rows of lace. The sleeve, which increases in size towards the bottom, has also lozenge openings, confined by buttons, and through the openings is seen a muslin under-sleeve, puffing a little, plaited lengthwise in small flutes and held at the wrist by an embroidered band with lace at the edge. The skirt has nine graduated openings down the front from top to bottom, buttoned like the others, through which is seen a nansouk petticoat, worked with wheels linked together, small at top and larger at bottom.

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